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Exploring Arunachal Pradesh's Culinary Delights

Tales by the Boiler: Exploring Arunachal Pradesh's Culinary Delights"
As we made our way towards Chug, Dirang, with the sun setting and casting long shadows over the landscape, we decided to pause briefly about two hours before reaching our destination. Pulling into a roadside stall, we eagerly ordered steaming cups of freshly brewed tea. Amidst the hustle and bustle, our attention was captured by a woman working swiftly beside a boiler, seeking warmth from the evening chill. Her hands moved deftly as she prepared bundles of fishmint "Houttuynia cordata", undoubtedly intended for the evening meal.

In the northeastern Indian state of Arunachal Pradesh, Houttuynia cordata, known locally as "Dok Pather" or "Dokyob", holds cultural significance and is frequently incorporated into traditional practices and folklore. While specific tales about Houttuynia cordata in Arunachal Pradesh may not be extensively documented, the plant likely carries cultural and medicinal importance among the indigenous communities of the region.

Within many indigenous cultures of Arunachal Pradesh, plants and their uses are deeply interwoven with folklore, spirituality, and traditional medicine. It is conceivable that Houttuynia cordata is woven into local myths, legends, or healing rituals, although comprehensive information regarding such folklore may require direct engagement with the local communities.

Moreover, the medicinal properties of Houttuynia cordata might be alluded to in local folklore or narratives, reflecting its role in traditional healing practices within the region. However, lacking specific documentation or access to local oral traditions, it proves challenging to provide detailed examples of folklore related to Houttuynia cordata specific to Arunachal Pradesh.

Since our stop was brief, we did not have the opportunity to delve deeper into the topic but only hoped to learn more about it during the later stages of our journey.
Arriving in Chug at 7:30 pm, we were warmly welcomed by the locals and briefed on our itinerary. The next morning, we enjoyed butter tea and Khapse before diving into the heart of Monpa cuisine. In an ancient wood-fired kitchen, we learned about the symbiotic relationship between food and the forest. Led by "Dorjee Ana," we explored the nuances of Phurshing Gombu and Chhura Gombu, indulging in a variety of dishes like Buckwheat pancakes and Finger millet spoon cakes with Phin brumsha soup. Ana's expertise and the flavors of Arunachal Pradesh filled the kitchen, uniting us in gratitude for the rich cultural experience.
Not every day was dedicated to savoring the delightful Monpa cuisine; occasionally, we embarked on leisurely walks to the nearby orange orchard to enjoy some freshly picked, succulent oranges. We also visited the then-under-construction Damu's fine dine, situated in a picturesque location overlooking the valley and orange trees, within easy reach from our resting area.

Exploring nearby locales provided us with firsthand insights into the operation of Chuskor, an indigenous water mill utilized by the Monpa community for grinding grains. We learned about the variety of locally sourced vegetables and other edibles, both indigenous and imported from neighboring states. The local market boasted an abundance of walnuts, churpi, and various dairy products.
How long can we resist the temptation of culinary delights during a gastronomic adventure? I'd hazard a guess, not for very long.

Following our excursion to the local market, we returned to our lodging to witness the traditional preparation of buckwheat noodles, known as "Khazi Putang," infused with foraged leaves like Dangoma, crafted in the most authentic manner. There, we encountered the essential wooden tool called the "Takthoshing," used to press the dough for crafting these noodles. The experience of observing and even trying our hand at making the noodles ourselves filled us with joy and enlightenment.

After this delightful encounter, we savoured a lunch featuring Khazi Puttang, Chamin (Chilli Chutney), Puttang Thukpa, and Yak meat with ginger.

As the flavours lingered and memories of our culinary adventure settled in our minds, we sought warmth on a chilly winter evening by gathering around the boiler.

The next morning brimmed with excitement as we ventured into the kitchen, greeted by the ever-vibrant Anas (sister) orchestrating a culinary masterpiece of Monpa delights. Some were meticulously crafting Lai Patta (Spinach) Tingmo and Millet Momo, while others whisked us off to pluck juicy oranges from the orchard. Upon our return, the aroma of local fried rice filled the air as Chef Farha joined the culinary fray, introducing her twist on Tingmo, packed with local cheese and spices.

Meanwhile, I played the role of the stealthy paparazzi, capturing every delicious moment while silently calculating the impending weight gain from this culinary odyssey. Let's not forget, that these gastronomic delights were merely breakfast, and the day had yet to unfold its lunch and dinner surprises.
After breakfast, we found ourselves with an abundance of freshly plucked oranges and a brief window of leisure before returning to our tasks. It was during this break that Chef Farha had a stroke of culinary brilliance, conceptualizing what I can confidently deem as the finest rendition of a salad I've ever encountered. Her take on the Orange Salad epitomizes a harmonious fusion of flavor and aesthetics. Crafted from freshly harvested monsoon bounty including oranges, soybeans, corn, and homegrown vegetables, its taste left an indelible mark on my palate, evoking drool-worthy memories with every recollection.
As previously mentioned, Day 2 promised an array of experiences. By noon, we ventured to the riverside for an outdoor lunch and picnic. Bamboo baskets brimming with firewood and bamboo heightened the palpable excitement in the air.

Upon arrival at the riverside, the group dispersed, with some engrossed in fire-building while others busied themselves with meal preparation. The Anas eagerly embraced the opportunity to create Chunga Soul, an ethnic Assamese dish cooked in bamboo, under Chef Farah's expert guidance. The highlight of this outdoor lunch was the rustic cooking method, utilizing clean river water and small stones as makeshift tools, evoking a sense of tradition and authenticity.

The lunch featured Chunga Soul, Smoked Chicken, and Yak meat, a harmonious blend perfectly suited for a winter afternoon. As the sun began its descent, the chilly wind by the riverside prompted our return to the homestay. However, our day was far from over. Upon our return, two more delightful dishes awaited us, promising to further tantalize our taste buds.

Preserving culinary heritage while promoting sustainability stands as a crucial topic in our times. Following our riverside lunch, Chef Farah introduced us to two dishes that embodied this ideal. Utilizing locally sourced Mon harvest, including Buckwheat pancake with orange marmalade and fresh oranges, and Millet and buckwheat tacos with pulled Mithun, Mon soybeans, and water celery, these dishes not only delighted my palate but also impressed the Anas.

As the day drew to a close, we gathered around the boiler to stay warm and reflect on the day's events.

On a personal note, this journey has been an invaluable learning experience for me, and I am deeply thankful to Chef Farah, the WWF-India team in Arunachal Pradesh, and of course, the ever-energetic group of Anas.
The subsequent two days at Chug seemed to fly by in an instant as we strived to absorb as much information as possible while also immersing ourselves in an unforgettable experience. We sampled more of the Mon harvest delicacies during this time, including Grilled Eggplant with Shanyu (local yak cottage cheese), Kiwi, Water Celery, Thukpa, Momos, and more. However, amidst our culinary adventures, the realization dawned upon us that our time of departure was fast approaching. The people of Chug served as a poignant reminder of the chaotic and superficial lives we lead in the so-called modern, tech-savvy cities, contrasting sharply with the genuine sense of fulfilment and joy evident in their everyday existence.

As I pen down these thoughts, my mind wanders back to the third quarter of 2023. If someone had told me then that I would embark on such a transformative journey with someone I barely knew, I would have dismissed it as unlikely. Yet, it feels like just yesterday when I impulsively signed up for Chef Farha's Autumn lunch event, seeking refuge from my therapy sessions and the turmoil of my mental health struggles. And then, almost miraculously, this trip presented itself. It has truly been a profound learning experience for me. After a prolonged period of uncertainty and soul-searching, I believe I have finally discovered my true passion. The trip granted me a sense of belonging, a newfound admiration for a friend's unwavering dedication to her craft and her resilient spirit, and lessons from individuals like Anas, who taught me the importance of maintaining a positive attitude even in the face of adversity.

With these reflections, I conclude the series "Tales by the Boiler: Exploring Arunachal Pradesh's Culinary Delights," eagerly anticipating more such enriching experiences in the days to come.

Exploring Arunachal Pradesh's Culinary Delights
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Exploring Arunachal Pradesh's Culinary Delights

A trip to Chug, Arunachal Pradesh in collaboration with Chef Farha Naaz & WWF-India, to explore the ethnic food of the region along with curating Read More

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